Sitaram Diwan Chand: Masterclass & Recipes

Pamela Timms — Tue, 26 May 2009 03:17:10 +0000

When conniving Mughal upstart Aurangzeb imprisoned his father, Emperor Shah Jehan, in Agra Fort in 1657, he told him he could choose just one thing to eat every day for the rest of his life. The old man chose chick peas because the prison cook told him he would be able to make something different [...]

Kuremal’s Kulfis: Masterclass and Recipes

Pamela Timms — Sun, 26 Apr 2009 06:15:00 +0000

The best ices in Delhi? It’s a big claim, but these are kulfis with a pedigree.

The Kuremal family have been making kulfi in the old city since 1908 when Pandit Kuremal left his ancestral village in Haryana at the age of 8 to seek fame and fortune in the big city. He learned the [...]

Faqiri Muamalaat

Pamela Timms — Fri, 27 Mar 2009 07:02:26 +0000

EOiD trips are always an adventure, but the vegetarian excursions are a particular delight. Not because we’re all militant meat-haters. Quite the reverse in fact. However, despite the fact that most of us believe a meal without meat is no meal at all, our leader, Hemanshu, is committed to providing an equal opportunities dining experience.

Amritsari Kulche in Rohini

Hemanshu Kumar — Fri, 20 Mar 2009 20:32:39 +0000

We economists have a dirty secret. We’re quite clueless. No, really.

Take for instance, the case of amritsari kulche. The kulche are about as closely related to their Delhi counterparts as the average barrel-chested Sikh is to your wiry daalkhor UP baniya.

Born of a thick dough of [...]

Kulle in Chawri Bazaar

Hemanshu Kumar — Fri, 22 Feb 2008 15:50:07 +0000

Chalk another one up for Shashank.

Several months ago, when the delicate evening chill meant you could look forward to winter rather than mourn its passing, we’d done a wonderful Navratra trip to Bazaar Sitaram and its precincts.

That’s when he’d dragged us to his favourite chaatwaala in Chawri Bazaar to show us [...]

Sitaram Dewan Chand

Hemanshu Kumar — Fri, 07 Dec 2007 14:09:34 +0000

It’s true. We men don’t ask for directions.

A couple months back, having heard one too many recommendations for Sitaram Dewan Chand’s Chhole Bhature, I googled their address, found the rough location on an online map, and went down to Paharganj. I reached the street I was looking for, but despite driving as slowly as [...]

Rajouri Garden of Five Senses

Hemanshu Kumar — Fri, 23 Nov 2007 09:25:15 +0000

Late last week, nine of us EOiD adventurers turned our noses westwards, and headed to Rajouri Garden.

I’d been looking for an excuse to go there for a while now — I kept hearing about the Giani’s ice-cream parlour there, but couldn’t enthuse myself to travel such long distances just for desserts. Then a few [...]

Kulfis at Sitaram Bazaar

Hemanshu Kumar — Thu, 25 Oct 2007 20:24:32 +0000

Shashank wasn’t impressed.

I was gushing on about Roshan di Kulfi of Karol Bagh, a place I’ve been visiting since I was that high, but it left Shashank cold. You see, Shashank runs a jewellery business of his own, with offices in both Karol Bagh and Chandni Chowk, and his appetite [...]

Iftar at Jama Masjid

Hemanshu Kumar — Sat, 20 Oct 2007 11:23:34 +0000

It must be the age.

I can’t think of any other reason it took me a whole fortnight to figure out why I’d been looking at the world with such a jaundiced eye of late. Life had been toodling along quite nicely, until an EOiD plan in mid-September to visit

Nagpal Amar Rahe!

Hemanshu Kumar — Fri, 07 Sep 2007 17:36:23 +0000

There are few things more difficult than getting yourself to start going for morning walks in Delhi’s pitiful excuse of a monsoon season. I had been trying to get going for several weeks, on occasion even succeeding in rousing myself in the wee hours of the morning. But I would lose heart when just a [...]

Eating Out in Delhi » North Indian